Monday, November 7, 2011

Pleasure and Work

Katie's run off to Italy for two weeks, to complete the residency portion of her Harvard course in refugee mental health. Lucky her, as her first report was that Orvieto is beautiful. She will begin to deepen knowledge of a field that has long interested her, and around which she hopes to shape her career. I know from my limited experience in US and international refugee work how important, and often (actually, regularly) overlooked, mental health services are for refugees. Go get 'em, Katie!


Goodbye hugs. 
Ever loving of their mother






















And so, I'm left in the DR with my day job and my other job, the puppies. I was thinking yesterday of how the puppies have helped us discover our surrounds. First, there is the fact that we must walk them. They don't particularly LIKE walking, but we sort of make them do it. And so, on walks we meet neighbors (not so much meeting as repeatedly saying hello, smiling, their clucking or awing at the pups), and take time to look at the colonial architecture while the dogs sniff (99% of the time aimed at some chicken bone that we can’t see but they eventually find. Dominicans LOVE fried chicken and throw bones all over the place).

The zona colonial is in varying states of preservation and decay.  


Stone from the ancient seabed was a common building material in colonial times. It's still frequently used for stairs,  walls, etc. 

                                                 
                                This colonial government building was made from seabed, as above. 

The second and most significant benefit has come through our relationship with Chookie, our dog sitter and household helper. Chookie runs a hair salon in her mother’s home, and has become Luna and Fia’s #1 public fan. The dogs run freely around the salon when in Chookie's care, and have made many friends there as well. Chookie, and her workmate Rosa, have given us pointers for security in the neighborhood, formally and informally introduced us to her neighbors, and  presented me to a group of domino players who have offered to have me join them whenever I like. 


Katie's studies in Italy position me as point man for the puppies. Nonetheless, we've been able to integrate them into my favorite elements of weekends and free time. First is the pool on our roof, which is small but incredibly refreshing. 




It’s only four stories up, but offers a great view of the colonial city and the Caribbean (not the most attractive part of the Sea, but it is suggestive of the rest). It’s open all day and night, which is great because ‘pool hours’ always disappoint me, so it serves well for morning pre-work dips, afternoon refreshers, and evening wine under the moon, stars, or whatever's going on in the tropical heavens. 
Katie's leg mind you, not mine
Lately we've benefitted from strong cool breezes, which at night seem like pre-storm winds, but mostly happen under clear skies. There must be something going on out in the open waters.  


After two years of mostly novel-free grad school, I've rediscovered "reading for pleasure". I still feel sort of guilty doing it at the expense of work or other pursuits, but it's great. I'm now finishing Graham Greene's The Comedians, which is about Haiti in the time of Papa Doc Duvalier. Many of the Haitian refugees in the DR fled from Papa and his thugs, the Tontons Macoute.  I highly recommend the book. 


 


















Finally, we've both been busy still setting up the house. My most recent project was a division between dogville and humanville on our porch. It's a rather rudimentary structure, built of cardboard, plastic from water bottles, bottle tops, and screws pinched from Ikea furniture. 
Cardboard division at right. Mini tropical paradise,  center.
Nevertheless, it keeps the teeth, pee, and hair on one half of the porch; and furniture, plants, candles and anything we don't want chewed to death on the other. 


And then there is work, the reason after all that Katie and I came to the DR. UNHCR has the UN mandate to ensure that refugees receive the protection they need in countries around the world. International refugee law is based on the Refugee Convention, which was created in 1951 to respond to WWII refugees and then updated and expanded in 1967 to officially apply to persons who flee persecution in other contexts.   Countries that are signatories to the Convention have the responsibility to receive asylum-seekers, and make a determination on their request in accordance with refugee law.  They must ensure that they have access to human rights in their countries of asylum, and that they are not deported to the country in which they fear persecution.


UNHCR was in the Dominican Republic between 1993 and 1997,  responding largely to inflows of Haitians fleeing the military government that overthrew Aristide in 1991. This was just one of a number of violent, unfair assumptions of power in Haiti's political history. UNHCR helped the Dominican government decide upon refugee claims during this period, and then left the country with the understanding that the Government would and could fulfill its obligations under international (and domestic) law. Nonetheless, the Dominican government did not systematically provide full protection for refugees. Most of the Haitians and nationals of other countries who sought asylum in the DR after 1997 were received, and allowed to apply for asylum, but have not had their cases studied. This means that they have the tenuous legal status of "asylum-seeker", which should prevent them from being deported, but does not allow them access to work. This situation, which is systematically aggravated by the fact that street-level authorities are not familiar with their country's asylum policies, with the legal value of an asylum-seeker certificate issue by the Government, or with the guarantee of non-return to the asylum-seeker's home country, makes for a hazardous and marginalized life for many asylum-seekers. It is hard for them to work, they are regularly detained, they have trouble accessing schools, and they do not have equal access to police protection.


UNHCR, absent in the country from 1997 to 2010, has returned to help the Government revamp its asylum system. They have welcomed us (though with hesitations that you can imagine) and have "helped us help them" in initial steps to stimulate the analysis of and decisions on some of the cases that have been pending now for over a decade. As you can imagine, this is challenging in many aspects. I'll continue to update on this and other aspects, as our work progresses. In the meantime, following are a few articles in English on refugees, migrants, and human rights in the DR:


1) Amnesty International report on human rights abuses by DR authorities
2) "As Refugees From Haiti Linger, Dominicans’ Good Will Fades"
     Note: The article misapplies the term 'refugee' by referring to earthquake victims who fled. In fact, by international law definition a refugee is someone who has fled persecution for one of a number of specific reasons.
3) "Dominican Republic: Haitians Detained"
     Note: Mass detentions of Haitians are regular. Most times refugees and asylum-seekers are able to avoid deportation, but not always.



Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Settling in... (Katie)

We've had an exciting few weeks since our last blog update.
Jeremy is back! Attack!


After a quick trip to NYC, Jeremy returned with a suitcase full of nuts and dog treats. One thing we've been enjoying here is figuring out how to fulfill all of our cravings by making things ourselves. I've  continued to try new vegan recipes and Jeremy has been making delicious nut butters. In place of Thai delivery and hearty Indian buffets we've cooked up our own Thai stews and coconut curries. Guacamole and hummus are regular delights.

Jeremy makes peanut butter
We have also been creative in buying food. We are members of what seems to be the only organic food organization placing our orders over the weekend and picking it up every Wednesday. Every Sunday we have been walking 15 minutes to China Town (yes there is a one-block China town here!) where we go to a restaurant to buy freshly made tofu. We are finding that we only need to go to the grocery store once a week and are greatly enjoying our culinary adventures!

On September 30, Jeremy celebrated his first Dominican birthday. The puppies and I made Jeremy breakfast and gave him cards. The puppies gave him "IOUs" for poops on the paper and licks on the face. Jeremy took half the day off of work to wait for our UN shipment to arrive. It didn't come until 6pm, but arrive it did! Happy birthday Jeremy! We had a lovely dinner at our favorite Italian pizzeria with UNHCR colleagues. After our rooftop dinner with prosecco and cake to go around, we finished the night off dancing.

Birthday skypes and beers

Bday night on the town!

Fia got all dressed up (courtesy of the vet) to go home!
 The birthday weekend took a turn in a more challenging direction when, on Sunday, we had to take one of our puppies to the emergency room (for animals of course... we aren't THAT ridiculous). Fia, hand-picked by yours truly because she was the runt of the bunch had always been small, but her sister had almost doubled her in size and without going into the details, we knew something was wrong. Long story short, Fia spent 3 nights at the vet last week with parasites, worms, an amoeba, and an infection. I was at the vet 6 times in 5 days!! We brought Luna in for another de-worming session and discovered that she is anemic. In a nutshell we are missing full nights of sleep, administering multiple medications every morning and evening, and we are relieved that both puppies are on the mend. Welcome to puppy parenthood!

Are we doing anything else besides parenting and cooking you ask? Well yes we have somehow managed, sans sleep, to continue to work and study. Jeremy continues to do an assortment of protection activities. His office is growing and the activities are changing, so he is doing a bit of everything. The office is in a hotel room, which is not ideal- so he appreciates any opportunity to get out into the slums. Literally. He will soon be traveling to Haiti to repatriate two -year-old Sophie who was brought here by her father for safekeeping, after her mother died in the earthquake; Sophie was in her arms.

Luna likes yoga
I have continued with my Spanish classes and am cutting back to half days to spend more time doing work for my upcoming course  "Global Mental Health: Trauma and Recovery." It is a certificate program through the Harvard Kennedy School and the Harvard Program in Refugee Trauma. After two weeks in Orvieto, Italy, the rest of the course is online.

Fia enjoys her perch as we start unpacking
All in all it has been an exciting 5 weeks here together. We feel a bit like new parents trying to figure out how to take care of our adorable puppies while also getting out to explore (they aren't so good on the leash quite yet). We've met some great people and are starting to feel at home. A beach vacation is hopefully on the horizon as is a phone call with you! Please take note that we have a Rhode Island phone number so you can call us with domestic U.S. rates! Our number is (401)-369-9538. We would love to hear from you!

Luna thoroughly enjoying unpacking
 
play, play, play annnnd we're out


Saturday, September 24, 2011

Two plus two... (Katie)

It has now been almost three weeks since I arrived and we are settling in more and more each day. We are still waiting for our shipment of furniture, but we have been happily nesting in our apartment with furniture graciously lent to us by Amanda, our landlady. Exploring a bit more each day, we are getting to know our neighborhood. The local supermarkets, cafes, parks, shops, restaurants etc. A hop, skip and a jump and we are at the ocean front, which lacks a sandy beach, but has an excellent running path with a refreshing breeze. The swimming pool on our roof is the perfect escape from the heat and destination for a relaxing night cap.

One of our delicious home-cooked meals: Ginger Hoison Noodles!


We've had a few amazing storms since we moved in. We learned our lesson about keeping our back windows open during a storm the hard way (with our open suitcases of clothes underneath)! When it rains it poors! The skies open up, the lightening is terrific and the thunder sounds like it is one foot away from your head! Our balcony is covered, so we can watch the rain and lightening with the doors open - it's incredible.

I am still going strong in my Spanish classes and I'm starting to think about volunteer opportunities to facilitate more of an immersion experience (and of course to volunteer). Jeremy's work has been busy and interesting. He has done a number of asylum case interviews of individuals who have been in this country without status for decades. It's fun to hear about his work when he gets home each night. We are very fortunate to share similar professional interests. His co-workers are great and my overall impression is that his contract with UNHCR is going to be an increasingly enriching experience.

To make or Dominican adventure even more exciting...

On Wednesday Jeremy had the day off so I took a vacation from Spanish classes. The day started out just like any other with a little bit of yoga, coffee & tea, doing work, sending some emails, and running some errands. Somehow we ended up at the local pet shelter just a few streets away. There we met many beautiful dogs including four puppies who were rescued over the weekend. It's not a long story to tell because we pretty much knew the minute we saw them that there was no going back! So, short story made even shorter: Meet the two new members of our household!

Luna (left) and Fia (short for Confianza, right)

The girls are adorable and a much loved addition to our life here. We certainly have our work cut out for us, but their cuteness far outweighs the challenge. They have successfully slept without whimper or howl for at least six hours two out of the three nights (we won't talk about the first night). They are slowly learning to do their business on newspaper (60% of the time), they have recently learned to go up and down stairs (with only a few somersaults), and, most importantly, they have quickly adopted us as their parents.

Fia bebe and her dad

Luna, Fia and I are holding down the fort for the weekend while Jeremy is in NYC for Abby and Jason's east coast wedding party. I'm sorry not to be there with them, but I am enjoying my first girls weekend in the tropics!

tropical perks

Much love to our family and friends from the four of us! Luna and Fia look forward to meeting you!










Sunday, September 11, 2011

Dominican Beginnings (Katie and Jeremy)


Two months after shopping for our unidentified home's furnishings at IKEA in Massachusetts, we have arrived in the Dominican Republic! Jeremy arrived three weeks ago at 6:30 in the morning and started his first day of work as a Protection Officer with UNHCR two hours later. His first few weeks were full of work, apartment searching and reporting back to Katie in Minnesota. Katie arrived last Tuesday and promptly threw away all of Jeremy's work, blazing her own trail to find the right apartment.

Jeremy sent Jose to pick Katie up at the airport
Katie found the apartment herself with only three hours of Spanish classes under her belt. Language was unnecessary when she and Amanda, our landlady, quickly became friends. The apartment is in the colonial zone, the oldest part of Santo Domingo. The neighborhood has a large population of foreigners, but is overwhelmingly Dominican. The architecture is Spanish Colonial with small cobblestone streets winding their way past old churches, ruins, cafes and corner stores called "colmados". There is no shortage of domino playing under shade trees.

Celebratory dinner en la zona colonial

As it turns out there is an IKEA in Santo Domingo. We would like to think that the prices are three times as high here and that having sent our furniture from the U.S. we have, in fact, brought a bit of home with us. We move into our apartment on Tuesday and hope our shipment arrives soon thereafter. In the meantime, we have been enjoying the pool, gym and convenience of Hotel Embajador where the UNHCR office is currently hiding out while waiting for their new digs.

Jeremy is working away and Katie has jumped right into her intensive Spanish program. The adventure has begun!

We will keep updating our family and friends throughout this journey. Sometimes we will write together and other times separately, so that you get a taste of both our joint as well as our individual experiences. Let us know if there is anything in particular that you are curious about.

¡Saludos!